The North American junkyard is a magical
place if you're a penny-pincher, gearhead, professional widget
collector, or just bored out of your mind in need of something cheap to
do. Most upstanding citizens ignore this last stop in the automotive
life cycle and choose new parts from a nice, safe dealer installed at
exorbitant rates. If, however, you like to add a dash of adventure to
your car repair, you should definitely check out a junkyard before
shelling out for new parts. For the uninitiated, these places can be
intimidating, but that needn't be the case. A good automotive recycler
offers a priceless mechanical education as well as a boatload of
inexpensive parts.
PICK YOUR POISON
Junkyards come in two styles—you-pick and full-service. At you-picks,
customers bring their own tools and personally wrestle parts from
derelict cars. Full-service yards will pull requested items and deliver
them to the front desk, where payment is collected, though this
convenience comes with added cost. My preference is definitely the
do-it-yourself type, which offers endless opportunities for mechanical
exploration. Plus, their low operating costs mean these businesses are
popping up all over the place lately.
When you've found a yard, call ahead to find out what they specialize
in. Some yards deal primarily in domestic-brand cars, others in
Japanese, German, high-performance, or vintage. Most are generalists and
stock what the market both supplies and demands. If you have a rare
car, ask if they have your model before spending time wandering around.
They might know; they might not. The likelihood of finding that
window-crank handle for your Triumph TR7 is pretty low because the
supply and demand aren't there. Conversely, you'll probably find piles
of pickups, vans, midsize sedans, and econoboxes. Wrecks come and go
regularly, so try to find out when the new junkers come in—they have the
best selection of parts. Remember, these places buy crashed and
abandoned cars to recycle them, so selling their parts is a happy bonus.
WHAT TO EXPECT
The scariest part for junkyard first-timers is passing through the
gates. Before stepping foot in the yard, a clerk will ask for your
signature on a brief document that absolves the company of liability in
case you do something stupid like drop an engine on yourself. Some
places charge a nominal fee for entry as well, usually about a dollar.
Consider this cheaper than paying for a movie and way more educational.
In well-operated yards such as Parts Galore in Flat Rock, Mich., there
is an underlying logic. The in-demand stuff is kept up front—that's
where you'll find plentiful vehicles prone to frequent breakdowns or
high accident rates. Conversely, examples of cars that are rare or older
or don't break down much will probably be all the way in the back, with
a gradual progression between. Lots are often divided by vehicle
manufacturer or point of origin—domestic versus Japanese versus
European, or GM versus Ford versus Toyota, and so on; think of it as the
difference between Dewey Decimal and alphabetical library systems. If
you're lucky, a map of the grounds is posted. Of course, your local yard
may be a mess of cars with no logic whatsoever. Some owners are just
lazy.
The first thing to look for is the price board. Rather than put tags on
all the items on every car, modern junkyards post a list of the
different parts in cars and generic prices for each. Because the board
doesn't care if a radiator comes from a Ford Escort or a Mercedes
C-Class, the savings against new parts can be staggering.
While prowling for parts, don't jump at the first one matching your needs. Look around for the
best
example and inspect it carefully, making sure it isn't damaged. Parts
Galore has a database of all interchangeable components so you can find
all the possible cars that could contain a replacement for your missing
fuel cap or broken window-control-panel switch. Before buying an
electrical component, test the part to ensure it functions. Junkyards
usually have 12-volt sources, such as batteries, that you can use.
Sometimes inflicting structural damage on a vehicle is the fastest way
to pull a part: Crossmembers, brackets, and wiring get chopped up all
the time—just try not to destroy anything someone else might want. Be
aware not everybody visiting these places works safely, so before
crawling around, inspect your quarry for safe working conditions. Move
on if something looks fishy. After finding what you're looking for and
extracting the thing, take it up to the clerk you passed on the way in;
tell her what it is, and pay. Some cheaters will call expensive items
cheap ones to get a better price—that can get you banned from the
grounds if you're busted.
THE FUN STUFF
Most people go to junkyards for parts; handles, cylinder heads, lights,
glass, body panels, and suspension pieces are popular. There are other
things to do in junkyards, though. Treasure hunters pick out expensive
parts and sell them online—airbag modules and computer boxes are targets
here. But there are other treats to be found. A wall of metal hubcaps
or a chandelier made of hood ornaments can spruce up the garage nicely.
You can find switches, speakers, air springs, and other widgets useful
for DIY projects. My favorite junkyard pastime is learning. Every car is
made a little different, and any engineer will tell you the best way to
understand how a thing works is to take it apart. Find a car with a
part you don't understand, such as a differential or transfer case, take
it apart, and then try putting it back together. If it doesn't go back,
that's okay. Got a big project coming up and want some practice?
Junkyards are a great way to try out a repair or modification before the
real deal. The junkyard is really what you make of it—whether you go
for parts or mechanical voyeurism, just make sure to get your hands
dirty.
EXPEDITION TOOLS
Packing tools for the yard is a bit like planning for a hiking trip: You
must carry every ounce of weight you bring. With that in mind, pack the
bare essentials and leave the backup in the car, just in case. Here are
the must-have tools to drop into your bag for an efficient and painless
hunt.
IN THE TOOL BAG
· Short pry bar
· ⅜-inch-drive ratchet set (standard and metric)
· Hammer
· Pliers
· Tin snips
· Hacksaw
· Screwdrivers
· Combination wrenches
· Allen wrenches
· Safety glasses
· Gloves
· Sunscreen
IN THE CAR
· Long pry bar
· 2 feet of pipe (breaker bar/bludgeoning stick)
· ½-inch-drive socket set
· Big hammer
· Coveralls and cardboard (for on-ground work)
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he
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